Imagine two chains of relatively big islands surrounded by reefs, blue lagoons and countless small islands, lined with coconut palms and mangroves. A high cliff rises directly from the sea here and there with caves along the water edge. Mountains rise above the bigger islands with the odd volcano. The people – always smiling, giggling at anything that life might offer and genuinely curious and friendly. Many kids running, jumping or diving around – little curly heads (sometimes blonde) sticking out behind every tree, wharf or umbrella and out of the many wooden canoes crisscrossing the lagoons. You are in the Solomon Islands.
I got my passport stamp, did some shopping and some walking and cycling around in Gizo. I couchsurfed with Warwick and his wife Samantha and their lovely son Lomoso, who was the first kid in the world not to run away screaming when he saw me.
On Ghizo there is a road of about 20 km to a beautiful beach called Seragi. I wanted to go there by bike. There is not much tourism in the Solomons and it’s mostly divers who come so hiring a bike was not easy. The dive shop offers bikes for hire – 150 SBD (20+ USD) a day. No gears, the bike almost works, lousy breaks and “it’s better to push it uphill because the chain is weak”. I couldn’t say yes!
For traveling in the Solomons, ship is certainly the way to go. Everyone wanted to talk to me and I got a dozen of invitations to visit people in their villages all over the Solomons. Too bad I already had a flight to Vanuatu in a few days.
I told someone that I had a laptop with me so we had a movie night that was not such a success. On my hard drive I have mostly documentaries and some TV series. “Friends” turned out to be less popular in the Solomons than where I come from and soon people started asking to see cartoons or a musical. I have no cartoons and the only thing close to a musical I could put on was Dancer in the Dark but I thought that wouldn’t go down too well so everyone fell asleep quite soon.
Note to self:
Bring some Tom and Jerry along next time you visit the Solomons.
Honiara, the capital, is a shithole. It has a large harbor, no need to say more. I loved the market though. It is dirty, smelly and disgusting but the fish and chips go for 5 SBD (0.70 USD) in the evening (compared to 20 SBD in most other places so far) and there are heaps (literally) of pineapples for as little as 3 SBD (10 for a huge one). Back in Papua New Guinea I had been eating a pineapple a day but in the Solomons I only found pineapple once in Munda. In Honiara I ate three huge ones in two days.
I stayed at Hibiscus homestay. All the cheapest guesthouses are on the same street, one block up from the main street. They’re all too expensive still at around 40 USD and I needed something cheaper. Just as in most other places in this part of the world, outsiders only stay in Honiara if they are working here and basically someone else pays for their accommodation. At Hibiscus homestay there were two long term tenants, a Philippino guy working for a Chinese company and a Korean who was training the Solomons’ taekwondo team for the Pacific games next year. Since I have my beautiful tent that I once paid for what would be a night at the Ritz, I was determined to find a place to camp to cut the cost. The United Church Guesthouse wouldn’t hear about it, the Anglican brothers at the Chester guesthouse needed to consult the main brother, who had to ask an even mainer brother who probably also asked the top brother (it did take a while) who said no. When I stumbled upon the Hibiscus guesthouse, Sara there laughed her face off when I said I wanted to sleep in my tent but finally agreed for me to camp on her veranda with a nice view over the sea. Her only argument against was that she would feel sorry for me sleeping in a tent. She was great company, herself from the Temotu province, which is tiny islands that fascinated me when I was planning this trip. It is the most remote province of the Solomons with many small Islands, far away from each other, where people are of Polynesian descent (they settled there from Tonga and Niue) and speak Outlier Polynesian languages. She taught me some of her language.
It’s not easy to find information about the Solomon Islands. The Lonely Planet is practically useless. It’s 1998 edition of the Solomon Islands guidebook is a detailed cultural and geographical study of the country. Since then they have merged the Solomons in the same book as Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands chapter is basically a newspaper article with a telephone directory of expensive resorts. Most provinces are covered by one sentence, literally. This is very unfortunate since the Solomon Islands are one of the most culturally diverse countries in the world.
Much has changed since 1998. Most of the big islands lack any roads apart from a logging road here and there. Most travel within the islands will therefore be limited to places with some kind of road or by small boats.
Solomon Airlines has flights to virtually everywhere but these are expensive. Cargo boats (slow!) run to basically every province from Honiara weekly or fortnightly or more often to Malaita. I haven’t seen schedules posted anywhere. I suspect they are non existent. The boat I was on was dirty and smelly and I suspect all of them are the same. I wouldn’t go without a mattress. The boats are also great places to meet people and get invitations to see village life. Many Solomon Islanders will love the idea of bringing a white man home to show to their friends and family. With a lot of time and flexibility a great trip could be had this way.
The price for a boat ride between Gizo and Honiara is 300-500 Solomon dollars. Right now there are three boats doing that route – LC Phoenix, Kosco and Chanella. They charge different prices and all run on the same day of the week (Sunday from Honiara, Tuesday morning from Gizo – all three of them!) Another ship – Fair Glory is being repaired in the Philippines and who knows when it’s gonna be back. I heard that the 3-day ride to Temotu province costs 500 SBD which isn’t bad at all.
Accommodation is very expensive. I liked having a tent.